Showing posts with label Vegetables. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vegetables. Show all posts

Thursday, January 29, 2015

Get Ready for Spring Gardening

by Carol Kagan, Master Gardener

The Master Garden March classes and workshop schedule has just been released. Call 717-263-9226 to register now. Classes are held at 181 Franklin Farm Road unless otherwise noted.

Hands-On Pruning Workshop: Sat., March 7, 9-11 am $10
This workshop is unique as Franklin County Master Gardener Elmer Greey presents this at his home in Shippensburg. He will discuss pruning techniques and considerations plus review equipment used for pruning. Participants will do hands-on pruning practice throughout his garden. This is also an opportunity to see some of his 700 different plants on his property. Bring bypass hand pruners, gloves and dress for the weather. Directions provided when registering.

Edible Landscape Classes ( $10 each )
The Edible Landscape classes are one of our most popular each year and fill quickly. Each one reviews site selection, plant and cultivar choices, planting techniques and maintenance. Soil tests available $9 cash or check
Sat., Feb. 28, 9-11 am  Grapes and Nuts $10






Sat., Mar. 14, 9-11 am Tree Fruit   $10



Sat., Mar. 21, 9-11 am Small Fruits and Brambles (Blueberries, raspberries & more)  $10



Starting a Vegetable Garden Class: Tues., March 17, 6:30-8:30 pm  $10
Learn about what to plant and where plus what varieties do best in our area. Soil tests available $9 cash or check

Pollinators: Secret Agents of Life Class: Sat., March 28, 9-noon  $10
Do you like foods such as chocolate, blueberries, apples, almonds?
Without pollinators these and many other food sources would disappear; which would adversely impact life as we know it.  Pollinators are in serious decline and need your help.  Join us as Master Gardener Laurie Collins helps raise awareness by guiding you through identifying pollinators in our area, why they are in decline and what individuals can do to help.  She will discuss easy basic design principles, plant selections and gardening practices for creating a successful pollinator garden.

Monday, August 25, 2014

Flower Arrangements from the Flower and Vegetable Gardens

by Carol Kagan, Master GardenerA few miniature eggplants and a red onion
A few miniature eggplants and a red onion
Look what you can do with flowers from your garden and a little time. Oh, and vegetables, too!
Perfect centerpiece of a picnic table
Perfect centerpiece of a picnic table
This lovely centerpiece is made with hydrangeas, different kinds of tomatoes (and  tomatillos) as well as a sunflower. Hosta leaves were used as a base for the basket.
From your yard-zinnias, hosta leaves, Queen Anne's lace, hydrangeas
From your yard-zinnias, hosta leaves, Queen Anne's lace, hydrangeas
Master Gardeners of Franklin County created these floral arrangements from flowers and plants in both the demonstration gardens and their own backyards.

Check out the zucchini used for a base and container. Add some greens with different textures, a few colorful flowers and a sprig of parsley.
Zucchini as a base and container
Zucchini as a base and container
Also, a bell pepper and watermelon. Perfect for this time of year.
There's enough peppers in the veggie garden to eat so use one as a flower vase.
There's enough peppers in the veggie garden to eat so use one as a flower vase.
Watermelon with corn, eggplant and lollipop cherry tomatoes
Watermelon with corn, eggplant and lollipop cherry tomatoes
Flowers found in most yards: hostas, zinnias, cosmos, black-eyed susans, Queen Anne's lace and beautiful grasses (if not in your yard, certainly in a nearby field!), hydrangeas, blanket flowers, garlic chives, and petunias.
Hearth basket uses dried grasses for texture
Hearth basket uses dried grasses for texture
A beautiful hearth basket, or to use by the front door, has sunflowers, dried grasses, blanket flowers and black eyed-Susans.  The stems are not that long but are discarded stems added to the arrangement.
Vegetables and herbs with a few blooms and grasses tucked in
Vegetables and herbs with a few blooms and grasses tucked in
And here's an attractive basket full of vegetables with some herbs tucked in as well as a few dry grasses.

Go out in your yard and find a few blooms, a few green leaves, and maybe a vegetable or two and put together you own celebration arrangement of summer's bounty.

Thursday, April 24, 2014

Heirloom Plant Varieties Inherit More Than a Good Harvest

Home Gardeners Chose Plants with Better Flavor & Interesting History
 
by Carol Kagan

Heirlooms provide a sense of history. The old wardrobe from Great Aunt Rose’s attic, an antique hand-carved rocking chair, and a rusty tool from a local auction carry a sense of history, of the people who used them.

This holds true for heirloom plant varieties. Many gardeners are drawn to the stories behind the names. ‘Radiator Charlie’s Mortgage Lifter’ tomato came from radiator business owner, “Charlie,” who came up with a large, meaty and productive variety that he sold during the depression. He used the money from this side business to pay off his mortgage.

“Heirloom seeds are usually more than 50 years old and have been passed down from generation to generation,” said Kathy McFarland, Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Company.  “This means they come with fascinating stories and heritage from years past.”
‘Aunt Lou’s Underground Railroad’ tomato has been traced back to Kentucky through Ripley, Ohio. The seeds were carried by an escaping slave as he traveled the Underground Railroad. The tomato is characteristic of those grown in that era.

Aunt Lou's Underground Railroad Tomatoes (Ole Farm House)
While the stories don’t enhance flavor, shelf-life, color, or fragrance, they are a way to connect to our plant and flower heritage.  “Heirloom seeds have often been handed down as family favorites,” said Chris Mayer, Director at Wilson College’s Fulton Center for Sustainable Living.

Heirloom varieties are open-pollinated which means that, unlike hybrids, seeds you collect from one year will produce the same plants the next year. “Using heirlooms helps preserve the gene pool and assure that resilience from pests, diseases and climate are built into the system,” said Mayer.
Home gardeners, unlike commercial growers have the luxury to choose what they grow. Many choose these vegetables and flowers for taste, shape, hardiness and color not found in hybrid selections.
Bullnose Pepper
(Geo. Washington's Mount Vernon)

Originally from India, Bullnose Peppers (Capsicum annuum) have been in U.S. gardens since the mid-1870’s. Thomas Jefferson grew these sweet peppers and are still grown at Monticello. They ripen early, withstand bad weather and their thick skins make them ideal for pickling, stuffing and raw with dips. While 20 seed companies offered these over 25 years ago, today vendors are rare and seeds often “out of stock.”


Tomatoes are the one vegetable that has a wide range of shapes, colors, taste and growing habit. Cherry, slicer, beefsteak, or canning types are available as are pink, orange, white and striped varieties.
“Most heirlooms taste better than the hybrid and genetically modified produce because these have been bred and selected for generations based on how they taste,” said McFarland.
'Arbuznyi' Tomato
As evidenced in the annual Tomato Tasting Day at Penn State Extension, Franklin County, there is a wide variety of taste. While shoppers may avoid any misshapen or blemished tomato in the grocery bin, home gardeners seem content to relish the taste over the appearance.
Pennsylvania heirloom tomatoes include Brandywine, reported to be introduced in 1885 by Amish farmers in Chester County. Other Mennonite and Amish heirlooms include Hahnstown Yellow, Amish Oxheart and Eva's Amish Stripe.
Brandywine (TomatoFest)
As for heirloom flowers, they often have better fragrances and more unique shapes than the usual offerings in garden centers. Introduced in 1792, the Cup and Saucer plant (Cobaea scandens) has a floral-honey fragrance and the cup-shaped flowers open pale green and turn dark purple. The green sepals at the base form a saucer. Mayer noted that saving seeds from heirlooms allows gardeners to enjoy the same variety year after year.
Cup and Saucer plant (Cobaea scandens)
Steve Bogash, Penn State Extension horticulture educator based in Cumberland County said, "With the rapid growth in vegetable gardening, demand promises to be higher than ever, if [you want] specific varieties of vegetables … for the coming season, you may want to get your [seed] orders in early."

'Violetta Itallia' Cauliflower (Baker Creek)
The window for seed starting to transplant in mid-May has closed. Gardeners seeking heirloom or unusual varieties probably won’t find them at the local garden centers or nurseries.
Why are the Master Gardener plant sales different than others?

           Heirloom and unique varieties, most not offered at garden centers, are growing in the greenhouse. Plants such as ‘Mortgage Lifter,’ and ‘Brandywine’ tomatoes are among over 50 varieties growing. ‘Bullnose’ peppers, ‘Cup and Saucer’ flowers, ‘Violletta Itallia’ cauliflower, ‘Brunswick’ cabbage  and many more vegetable and flowers will be available
           In southern central Pennsylvania the last frost date is May 10. With the Greenhouse Sale on May 9 (10 a.m. to 2 p.m.) and the Plant Sale on May 17 (9 a.m. to 1 p.m.) customers can transplant with no need to hold plants until the last frost date.

           Locally grown plants, nurtured by Master Gardeners in their Franklin County home landscapes, have been divided out and potted up to sell.
           Master Gardeners available to offer assistance for choosing and caring for the plants offered.

More links:
Seed Catalogs -Tomatoes 2012
Early Veggie Harvest
2011 Tomato Day Results
Time to Pick Your Tomatoes for 2014
Baker Creek Seeds
Wilson College Fulton Farm




 

Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Frost, Freeze and Green Tomatoes

by Carol Kagan, Franklin County Master Gardeners
Frost on the Pumpkin (WKTY-TV, Lexington, KY)
We are fast approaching the last frost free date of October 15 in Franklin County and many home gardeners, eager to either have homegrown tomatoes for Thanksgiving or loath to discard any possible foodstuff, are looking at their green tomatoes.
 
FROST VS. FREEZE

Frost, “killing frost,” freeze warnings, a “killing freeze” - what is the difference? In casual conversation the terms frost and freeze are often interchangeable but there is a very real difference. Frost and freeze are two distinct phenomena. These terms take on significance when they are associated with the growing season.
North Carolina State
FROST

According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), frost is the formation of thin ice crystals on the ground or other surfaces in the form of scales, needles, feathers, or fans. Frost develops under conditions similar to dew, except the temperatures of the Earth's surface and earthbound objects falls below 32°F. A frost advisory is issued when widespread frost formation is expected over an extensive area. Surface temperatures are usually in the mid-30’s. If a frost period is sufficiently severe to end the growing season (or delay its beginning), it is commonly referred to as a "killing frost."

 Dr. Katharine B. Perry, North Carolina Extension Service, has compared frost and freeze conditions for protection of horticultural crops noting frost and freeze protection methods are based on preventing or replacing radiant heat loss.
Frost on Lettuce- Gary Bachman, Mississippi State University

Because frost is primarily an event that occurs as the result of radiational cooling  - heat loss at night - it frequently occurs with a thermometer temperature in the mid-30’s. A radiation frost happens when a clear sky and calm winds (less than 5 mph) allow an inversion to develop. An inversion occurs when the heat radiating from the earth rises and causes the cooler air above to be pushed down, and temperatures near the surface drop below freezing.
North Carolina State University
Covering plants before the sun sets may be protection from frost as this can help retain heat near the plants.
Frost damaged tomatoes, squash and peppers-
Gordon Johnson, Kent County, Delaware
FREEZE
According to NOAA, a freeze is when the surface air temperature is expected to be 32° F or below over a widespread area for a significant period of time. Use of the term is usually restricted to advective situations or to occasions when wind or other conditions prevent frost.

Dr. Perry explains than an advective, or windborne, freeze occurs when a cold air mass moves into an area bringing freezing temperatures. Wind speeds are usually above 5 mph and clouds may be present. Attempts to protect plants are very limited under these conditions.

 A "killing freeze" may be used during the growing season when the temperature is expected to be low enough for a sufficient duration to kill all but the hardiest herbaceous crops.


According to NOAA, freeze warning are issued during the growing season when surface temperatures are expected to drop below freezing over a large area for an extended period of time, regardless whether or not frost develops.
Green tomatoes - Carol Kagan
GREEN TOMATOES

Tomato Flower-Carol Kagan
We are less than two weeks away from the first average frost. Since it takes about six weeks for a tomato to go from flower blossom to ripe fruit, you should have pruned back your tomato plants in mid-September (cutting the growing tip off all the vines and any new blossoms to redirect the plant’s energy toward ripening up the existing fruit).


 
Oops! Okay, you were enjoying the weather and forgot. Now what?
There's always fried green tomatoes or you can store them to ripen up later.

Pan-Fried Green Tomatoes (From PS WPSU Local Food Journey)

Ingredients:
   2 large green tomatoes       1/4 cup bread crumbs
   1 egg salt                            1/4 cup milk black pepper
   1/2 cup all-purpose flour    Peanut oil for frying
   1/4 cup cornmeal

Directions: Slice the tomatoes 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick.

Whisk together the egg and milk. Place the flour and a little salt and pepper into another bowl. In a third bowl combine the cornmeal, bread crumbs, salt, and pepper.

Bread the tomatoes by first dusting them with flour, then dipping them into the egg, and finally coating with the bread crumb mixture. *

Heat the oil (1-2 cups) in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Cook until the tomatoes are golden brown on both sides. Drain on paper towels.

* An online blog (Tadpole's Outdoor Blog) suggests that these can be put in a single layer, frozen and then stored in a plastic bag in the freezer to use later. Perhaps fried green tomatoes for Christmas!
Tadpole's Outdoor Blog

STORE TO RIPEN
Pick and store your green tomatoes and let them ripen up. Ron Wolford, University of Illinois Extension horticulturist, notes that green tomatoes can be harvested before a predicted frost.

“You can tell when a tomato is nearing maturity by its light green, almost translucent, appearance,” according to Barb Fick, horticulturist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. “Tomatoes that are not in this 'mature green' stage won't ripen.”


Fick notes that a green tomato is mature if its interior is yellowish and the tissues are gelatinous, or sticky, when the tomato is cut. Mature green tomatoes also have a pink or reddish tinge on the blossom end.
Check for maturity by cutting a green tomato in half. If the pulp filling the compartments is jelly-like, it is mature green. In immature green tomatoes, seeds are easily cut through and the jelly-like pulp has not yet developed.



Checking maturity in green tomatoes - Courtesy of Lowes.com
Wolford recommends removing the stems, washing and drying the fruit. Wrap each tomato in newspaper and place them in a single layer on a shelf or in a box. You can also put them in deep straw or just lay them in a box so that they are not touching. Check tomatoes every few days and discard any that show signs of rot.
Wrap tomatoes in newspaper - Carol O'Meara,
Colorado State Univ. Extension Service
Tomatoes will ripen satisfactorily in the dark, according to Fick, and sunlight is not needed; however, temperature is important. Storage temperature should range from 60 to 70 degrees. They will ripen over a period of three to four weeks.
Picking and storing the mature green tomatoes in mid-October means there's a good chance you can have some tasty, home-grown tomatoes for the Thanksgiving celebration.

For more information, check these links:

Cornell Cooperative Extension, Chemung County: Understanding Frost

Mississippi State University: Winter’s frost, freeze can damage landscape

Penn State WPSU Local Food Journey: Field Notes and A Recipe for Pan-Fried Green Tomatoes

PSU Preserving Your Harvest - Tomatoes

Colorado State University Extension Service: Ripening that Huge Crop of Green Tomatoes (Carl Wilson, Colo. State Coop Extension Agent)

Cornell Cooperative Extension, Chemung County: Guidelines for Harvesting Vegetables
Compiled by Eric de Long

Sunday, July 8, 2012

Early Veggie Harvest - 2012

Green and Yellow Zucchini




First flush of fresh vegetables coming in from my garden.  Green and Yellow zucchini producing enough to share with fellow congregants at church this morning.




First Tomato (and Pepper) Pickings
Started picking my first tomatoes this week.  Mostly cherry varieties (Sungold, Chocolate Cherry, Solid Gold yellow grape, and Five Star red grape) plus smallish, but early and well-flavored Czech heirloom Stupice, and the smallish, ribbed variety Ceylon.  I ate (and saved the seeds from) the first Maglia Rosa fruit, before I remembered to take a picture.  The orange pepper is the heirloom variety Yummy, a mini-bell, which I overwintered in a pot indoors and have been picking for a little over a week now.  Not enough production to do much sharing, yet.

Speaking of tomatoes, there's some interesting recently published research about why commercial tomatoes seem to be flavorless.  A while back, tomato breeders for commercial production discovered a  trait for uniform ripening and then bred it into tomatoes that became standard in the industry.  No more undesirable green or yellow shoulders, or unusable unripe parts at the stem end. The unintended consequence, however, was that the trait for even ripening disabled another trait, the sugar producing dark green skins on unripe fruit.  Apparently, not all the sugars and flavenoids are produced by the leaves of the plant, so the resultant fruit was less flavorful.  Here are two follow up newspaper articles on the subject:
1) NY Times
The discovery “is one piece of the puzzle about why the modern tomato stinks,” said Harry Klee, a tomato researcher at the University of Florida in Gainesville who was not involved in the research. “That mutation has been introduced into almost all modern tomatoes. Now we can say that in trying to make the fruit prettier, they reduced some of the important compounds that are linked to flavor.”
2) Philadelphia Inquirer
Tomatoes that have been bred to ripen with a uniform color contain up to 20 percent less sugar than their counterparts with green or yellow patches on the "shoulder" of the fruit, the researchers found after a genetic analysis. These uniform varieties suffer a similar reduction in the antioxidant lycopene and of beta carotene, a precursor of vitamin A.
Notice the two heirloom varieties in the picture above - Ceylon and Stupice.  Both have an unripe green tinge at the stem end.  Both taste terrific.

Elsewhere in my garden ...


Garlic Curing
I harvested my garlic earlier this week.  Remember that 2011 unharvested clump I pointed out back in April?  I left it alone to see what would happen.  Here it is.

2011 Unharvested Clump
Kinda uninteresting.  As predicted, smaller bulbs with fewer cloves than those grown from selected, separated cloves.

Monday, July 25, 2011

All in for Alliums


Garlic and Multiplier Onions
2012 Seed Bulbs to the Left
Garlic

I grew two types of garlic this past year: I repeated the Inchelium Red, a softneck variety, originally purchased from Territorial Seed Co. and a hardneck variety I call Wilson’s Fulton Farm garlic, which I think, started out as a variety called Music, although I’m not sure of that. Maybe Chris Mayer can let us know in the comments section? The seed bulbs were given to me by Bill Dorman last fall, who said he got them from Wilson’s Fulton Farm several years ago. After planting last fall and fertilizing in the spring, the garlic was harvested during the July 4th weekend and has been curing in the barn since. The cool thing about garlic is that after the first year, you don’t need to buy, or acquire any more seed bulbs. Just save your largest bulbs for planting in the fall, for the following year’s harvest.

Hardnecks tend to be stronger in garlic flavor and they have 5-10 uniformly sized cloves around the hard stem, which makes them easier to use. Their storage shelf life after curing is about 5-6 months, which is less than the softnecks. They’re also more cold tolerant and will survive the coldest of winters here in our Zone 6 growing area, and colder zones farther north. And the hardnecks offer a gourmet treat that adds another dimension. They send up a flower stalk called a scape in late spring. It’s best to cut it off, so the plant gives all of its energy to the bulb, not to flowering and seed. The subsequently cut scapes are a great treat in stir fries and salads. Think of them as sturdier chives, with a garlicky, rather than oniony flavor. Delightful. It’s one of those treats only available to the grower, since they have minimal shelf life, once cut. Add radish seed pods to that category, as well.

Softneck garlic bulbs are what you’re used to buying in the grocery store. They have a longer shelf life, at 9-10 months, sometime up to a year under ideal conditions. I didn’t buy any garlic this past year, using only my home grown ones, although by May or June, the last cloves were starting to sprout and were getting soft. I did have the dried garlic powder I made last fall to tide me over until harvest time, and the scapes from the hardnecks filled in nicely when I started to run out. The softnecks have large cloves around the outside circling ever smaller ones toward the middle. And of course you can braid them, since the stems and leaves are flexible. Note: the ones in the grocery store are not recommended for growing here, since in all likelihood, they were grown in a warmer climate, like China or California. Buy your first set from a reputable seed company, save the biggest and best year to year and establish your own strain, tailored to your (very) local growing conditions. Local Farmers Markets are another source of seed garlic that is good to use in your garden.

I will continue to plant both kinds to take advantage of the best characteristics of each.

Multiplier Onions  

Multiplier Onions for 2012 Crop
Another gift from Bill Dorman. This is a type of onion that grows bulblets around the main bulb, sorta like (but not really) the way cloves of garlic cluster. Just like garlic, you save the largest bulbs for replanting, and in this case, harvest the smaller clustering bulbs for storage, fresh eating, and cooking. The bowl in the first picture at the top has the harvested bulbs, and the ones in the middle of the picture show how they grow around the main bulb. Their flavor is somewhat mild, reminiscent of shallots.

Above are the seed ones I’ll be replanting in the fall.



Bulblets from the Top of Egyptian Walking Onions
Egyptian Walking Onions

This is another perennial onion that has the unique characteristic of growing bulblets at the top of the plant. They’re called walking onions, because if you were to leave them on their own, the leaves will bend over and emplant the bulblets in the soil, thus, “walking” across the garden bed, year to year like a slow motion Slinky (Remember those?) This is my third year growing them, again as a gift from Bill Dorman, who got his original supply from Renfrew’s 4-Square garden when Master Gardeners visited there in the summer of 2007, and Doris Goldman gave out some samples. The small bulblets are quite strong in onion flavor, and, because of their small size, are kind of a pain to peel and use. They make great additions to stocks, however, giving a wonderful onion flavor to the brew, without having to peel them at all. I just add them whole to the simmering stock pot that will later be strained out after extracting their goodness. Another trick is to plant them back in the garden in late August for a fall harvest of scallions, or save them for the spring for the same purpose. In the tender, early sprout stage, their flavor is much milder. Again, as with the garlic and multiplier onions, they are totally year- to-year sustainable, without having to rely on an outside source.

Main Crop Onions

Freshly Dug Onion Harvest
I grew three different varieties of main season onions this year: two storage varieties, and a sweet variety. All were purchased and planted as sets. They were acquired for the Victory Garden with an oversupply offered to Master Gardeners for our home plots. We sell them for $3.00 a bundle, slightly above cost. And a bundle holds between 60-70 plants. Our supplier is Dixondale Farms, if you'd like to order directly.

Red Zeppelin
The first storage variety is called Red Zeppelin (I love the name), and the other, a yellow one, called Big Daddy. For storage varieties, a curing period is called for. You harvest from the earth after the leaves have fallen down, but before they yellow. The leaves stay on during the curing process. Placed in a dark, dry place, the drying leaves wick away moisture from the interior of the bulbs.

Big Daddy
After about 2-3 weeks of drying, the leaves will have yellowed, and the bulbs are ready for storage. At that point, you cut away the dried leaves, trim the roots, and hang in a mesh basket in your root cellar (dry, cooler temperatures in the 55-65 degree range). A basement, or attached garage suffices. They should keep for 6-8 months.


Super Star


The white one is a sweet variety called Super Star. This is not a good storage variety, so only plant enough to eat before Thanksgiving, since their storage life is limited to 2-3 months. Cut off their leaves upon harvest, since curing is unnecessary for their short shelf life. Refrigeration can extend that life for another month or so. These are sweet enough to rival Vidalias and make great raw additions to burgers and salads throughout the summer and fall.

Onions and Garlic are among the easiest vegetables to grow, requiring little more than planting, a bit of fertilizing (same as is used for your lawn, if you do such things – nitrogen only is needed), and weeding. No staking, no pruning, no spraying, and one of the earlier summer harvests, before your beans and tomatoes. They are virtually pest and disease free.

So, once I add shallots and leeks to my repertoire to go with the above, and the chives that are in my herb garden, plus some of the ornamental ones in the perennial bed, the total conquest and exploitation of the Allium family will be complete.

UPDATE:  Well, conquest is farfetched.  USDA lists 299 separate species of Alliums (type 'Allium' in the search box at the link).  Maybe it would have been better to say exploitation of cultivated Alliums.

UPDATE II:  Monday 8/1/11 - Chris Mayer informs me by email that after checking with the Farm Manager, the Fulton Farm Garlic has been grown there for the last 16 years, and the guess is that it was probably Music, given its prominence in Organic Farming circles, but there is no way to tell for sure.  Doesn't matter.  If you want a source of hardneck garlic, genetically conditioned to our local growing area, Fulton Farm garlic is a great choice.