Monday, September 27, 2010
Dining with Diabetes
Penn State Cooperative Extension is offering a low-cost class, “Dining with Diabetes: A Program for Adults with Diabetes and their Families,” to teach those with type 2 diabetes and/or pre-diabetes how to manage their condition. The classes are offered in a social and interactive setting. Franklin County has a rapidly increasing incidence of diabetes, according to the 2008-2009 Community Health Needs Assessment conducted by Summit Health, and this program will help educate Franklin County residents at risk for or experiencing type 2 diabetes.
The low cost program includes: five classes, blood tests to measure the participant’s risk for diabetes complications, recipes, exercise DVD, educational materials, pedometers and stretch bands. Each class, taught by a Registered Dietitian, offers food demonstrations, mild physical activity and class discussion. Lab tests to measure hemoglobin A1C, and other measures of diabetic control will be done as part of the class. The fee includes all educational materials, lab tests and food taste tests. “We want participants to know their numbers to help them manage their diabetes, and also to learn in a fun and engaging class setting,” said Rayna Cooper, extension educator and Registered Dietitian, who manages the program in the region. The total cost for the 5 classes is $35 for an individual or $50 if the individual decides to bring a family member. An extra incentive to participate in the program in Franklin County is that those participants or families completing the final class will be given a gift card for $20 to use in a local grocery store.
The class location will be the Franklin County Ag Heritage Building in Chambersburg. The first four classes will be held on Tuesdays from 1:00 to 3:30 pm beginning on October 12, 2010, with a follow-up class on January 11, 2011. The instructor for the course will be Nancy Routch, RD, LDN. Nancy is a Registered Dietitian and a consultant for Penn State Cooperative Extension. Scholarships are available for those needing assistance with the course fee. For information on registering for the Franklin County program, contact Rayna Cooper at the Adams County Extension office at (717) 334-6271 or email rgc15@psu.edu. The “Dining with Diabetes” program in Franklin County is made possible by a grant from Summit Endowment, with additional funding from the USDA and a grant from the PA Department of Health. Penn State also partners with Joslin Diabetes Center, which is affiliated with Harvard Medical School.
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Sowing a Cover Crop
Master Gardener Angela Weathers offers tips on putting your vegetable garden to bed by sowing a cover crop to improve your soil.
Whatever you do don’t leave your soil bare this winter or you’ll be missing out on a chance to recharge your soil and increase its fertility. This year why not try planting a cover crop or green manure? They are well suited to all gardens, big or small. Green manure and cover crops are often grown as an inexpensive method of improving the soil, they might be the hardest-working plants you’ll ever grow, and they cover the soil and protect it from erosion, and suppress weed germination. Dozens of plants have special talents and pull up nutrients and minerals from deep within the soil to improve the soil structure by increasing nitrogen production and soil microbial activity. They enhance the availability of nutrients locked up in the soil, and conserve water.
These crops can also break disease cycles and reduce populations of bacterial and fungal diseases; they also attract natural predators of pests by providing elements of their habitat. Most plants used for cover crops and green manure are either grasses such as rye, barley or wheat, or legumes like peas, beans and various types of clovers and vetches.
Be sure to plant your cover crop/green manure seed about four weeks before killing frosts. That would mean planting in late September or early October. Broadcast the seed and rake it in to protect it from the birds, and then keep moist until germination. You must kill these crops before they set seed in the spring and the top growth gets out of control. You can quickly kill them by cutting back with grass shears or with a weed whacker about a month before it’s time to plant your tomatoes and peppers, which would be April 15th in our area, and then incorporate it into the soil or use the cut foliage as mulch. A power mower does the job for larger areas.
The following three winter crops are best suited to our area:
Hairy vetch gives a big payback in terms of soil improvement. It’s an annual winter legume that serves both as a cover crop, green manure and mulch. It's extremely cold tolerant and contributes 80-250 lb/acre of nitrogen to the soil, 18 pounds of phosphorus, and 132 pound of potassium. Sow at a rate of 1 to 2 pounds/1,000 sq feet. The first year you may have to use a special inoculent with the seed. Legumes have developed a symbiotic relationship with a common, beneficial soil bacteria, Rhizobium, which allows them to fix nitrogen from the air, and make it available to the plant. If you haven't planted a legume crop (peas, beans, clover e.g.) in a few years, then add the inoculant. It contains a starting colony of the Rhizobium microorganisms which will remain active in the soil to benefit future crops.
Another type of winter cover crop to consider is cold hardy oats. When the temp dips to near 0ºF the plant drops down to the ground and dies; the dead leaves and stems will protect the surface all winter. They will form a nearly impenetrable mat that will drastically reduce light transmittance to weed seeds which reduces weed seed germination.
Winter rye is an excellent cover crop because it rapidly produces a ground cover that holds soil in place against the forces of wind and water. It should be sown at about a 2 to 3 pound of seed for every 1000 square feet of area being sown. The rye will grow over the winter, and its fibrous roots will improve soil structure and provide organic matter when you turn it under before planting in the spring.
Regularly adding cover crops and other organic materials can raise your soil’s nutrient level and physical quality, thus reducing the need to add fertilizers. Use cover crops and green manures as part of your soil-building program.
Check with your local farm supply store for seed or order on line. Peaceful Valley Farm, Territorial Seeds, Johnny's Selected Seeds, and Seven Springs Farm are possible sources.
Whatever you do don’t leave your soil bare this winter or you’ll be missing out on a chance to recharge your soil and increase its fertility. This year why not try planting a cover crop or green manure? They are well suited to all gardens, big or small. Green manure and cover crops are often grown as an inexpensive method of improving the soil, they might be the hardest-working plants you’ll ever grow, and they cover the soil and protect it from erosion, and suppress weed germination. Dozens of plants have special talents and pull up nutrients and minerals from deep within the soil to improve the soil structure by increasing nitrogen production and soil microbial activity. They enhance the availability of nutrients locked up in the soil, and conserve water.
These crops can also break disease cycles and reduce populations of bacterial and fungal diseases; they also attract natural predators of pests by providing elements of their habitat. Most plants used for cover crops and green manure are either grasses such as rye, barley or wheat, or legumes like peas, beans and various types of clovers and vetches.
Be sure to plant your cover crop/green manure seed about four weeks before killing frosts. That would mean planting in late September or early October. Broadcast the seed and rake it in to protect it from the birds, and then keep moist until germination. You must kill these crops before they set seed in the spring and the top growth gets out of control. You can quickly kill them by cutting back with grass shears or with a weed whacker about a month before it’s time to plant your tomatoes and peppers, which would be April 15th in our area, and then incorporate it into the soil or use the cut foliage as mulch. A power mower does the job for larger areas.
The following three winter crops are best suited to our area:
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| Hairy Vetch |
Hairy vetch gives a big payback in terms of soil improvement. It’s an annual winter legume that serves both as a cover crop, green manure and mulch. It's extremely cold tolerant and contributes 80-250 lb/acre of nitrogen to the soil, 18 pounds of phosphorus, and 132 pound of potassium. Sow at a rate of 1 to 2 pounds/1,000 sq feet. The first year you may have to use a special inoculent with the seed. Legumes have developed a symbiotic relationship with a common, beneficial soil bacteria, Rhizobium, which allows them to fix nitrogen from the air, and make it available to the plant. If you haven't planted a legume crop (peas, beans, clover e.g.) in a few years, then add the inoculant. It contains a starting colony of the Rhizobium microorganisms which will remain active in the soil to benefit future crops.
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| Oats |
Another type of winter cover crop to consider is cold hardy oats. When the temp dips to near 0ºF the plant drops down to the ground and dies; the dead leaves and stems will protect the surface all winter. They will form a nearly impenetrable mat that will drastically reduce light transmittance to weed seeds which reduces weed seed germination.
 |
| Winter Rye |
Winter rye is an excellent cover crop because it rapidly produces a ground cover that holds soil in place against the forces of wind and water. It should be sown at about a 2 to 3 pound of seed for every 1000 square feet of area being sown. The rye will grow over the winter, and its fibrous roots will improve soil structure and provide organic matter when you turn it under before planting in the spring.
Regularly adding cover crops and other organic materials can raise your soil’s nutrient level and physical quality, thus reducing the need to add fertilizers. Use cover crops and green manures as part of your soil-building program.
Check with your local farm supply store for seed or order on line. Peaceful Valley Farm, Territorial Seeds, Johnny's Selected Seeds, and Seven Springs Farm are possible sources.
Harvest Your Basil!
Welcome fellow Master Gardener Jerry Lewis with a guest post on harvesting his basil.
There is still time to harvest your basil and make up lots of pesto for the winter. I have about 6 different kinds of basil, I just mix them all together. A couple pictures of basil plants here shows purple ruffled basil, a really nice garden plant even if you don’t use it for culinary purposes, genovese basil, with its large and shiny leaves, and a purple basil that has smaller leaves but is easy to cut and grows well.
Harvesting just means cutting the basil off a couple stems below the flower head (you should cut it before it flowers - I have been gone too often this summer)
As you cut the leaves, make sure you have a sharp scissors and try to cut the leaf with as little stem as possible.
If you’re patient enough, make sure you get those tiny little leaves growing out of the stem, they are the tenderest and tastiest, but the hardest to get.
The stems go in the compost, or in the fireplace to scent your room, or in the outside fire pit to add some spice to your fire at night.
I use basil in everything - my tomato juice, my spaghetti sauce, my scrambled eggs, my roasted vegetables. I like the smell even more than the taste, so I just like to hang around wherever it is. When I brought in the latest harvest, the smell lingered throughout the house for half the day - cheaper than those scented candles... But what I like best is pesto - that’s pesto anything, and I’ll leave you to find the recipes you like best. My wife’s pesto recipe is simple and easy to make:
Chop the basil leaves finely (we use a food processor), add the pine nuts, blend; add the cheese and olive oil and blend again, scrape down the sides of the container and the mixture forms a thick paste. The pesto keeps in the refrigerator for a week; it freezes for a few months.
The latest innovation at our house is freezing the pesto in ice cube trays - just pack it in the trays and add a bit of water to each and freeze it. Then you have individual serving size pesto batches for whatever you need it for!
So go look up some pesto recipes and try them out, We’re making tomato basil soup today. But what ever you do, don’t forget to stop and smell the basil.
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| Purple Ruffled Basil Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Genovese Basil Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Purple Basil Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Picked and Rinsed Photo - J. Lewis |
As you cut the leaves, make sure you have a sharp scissors and try to cut the leaf with as little stem as possible.
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| Trimming Leaves Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Trimming Leaves |
If you’re patient enough, make sure you get those tiny little leaves growing out of the stem, they are the tenderest and tastiest, but the hardest to get.
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| Don't Miss the Little Guys Photo - J. Lewis |
The stems go in the compost, or in the fireplace to scent your room, or in the outside fire pit to add some spice to your fire at night.
I use basil in everything - my tomato juice, my spaghetti sauce, my scrambled eggs, my roasted vegetables. I like the smell even more than the taste, so I just like to hang around wherever it is. When I brought in the latest harvest, the smell lingered throughout the house for half the day - cheaper than those scented candles... But what I like best is pesto - that’s pesto anything, and I’ll leave you to find the recipes you like best. My wife’s pesto recipe is simple and easy to make:
- 1 cups fresh basil leaves, packed
- 1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
- 1/3 cup olive oil
- 1 1/2 tablespoons pine nuts (or walnuts)
- 2 garlic cloves, finely minced
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| Freezer Ready Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Using Ice Cube Trays Photo - J. Lewis |
So go look up some pesto recipes and try them out, We’re making tomato basil soup today. But what ever you do, don’t forget to stop and smell the basil.
October Workshop - Haiku Horticulture
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| Click on the Picture for a Larger Image |
In the same way that a few simple rules and nature themes guide the endless possibilities in Japanese Haiku poetry, working with plants in the Japanese style, also offer a few simple and adaptable rules, with a corresponding endless set of possible results. This overview is useful for both the beginner and experienced gardener, and each of the presentations can be expanded to full, detailed workshops on their own, depending on the level of interest.
Where: Ag Heritage Building, 181 Franklin Farm Lane, Chambersburg, PA 17202
Cost: $10.00
For more information and to register, call (717) 263-9226. Or you can click on the brochure above, print it, then fill out the information and send it to the Extension Office.
October Workshops - Landscape Design and Plant Selection
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| Click for Larger Picture |
“Landscape Design” participants will learn how to create their own personal landscape plan. The goal is for students to analyze their site and develop on paper a landscape design for the property, whether a new or existing home site. The series will end with a review of the participant’s design plan with an experienced Master Gardener. the individual classes and schedule is as follows:
Tuesday, October 5: Planning, whether a new property or old: basic tools & principles
Tuesday, October 12: An Artist’s View of the landscape: what your property will look like in ten years.
Tuesday, October 19: Choosing the Right Trees for your landscape
Wednesday, October 27: Using Deciduous and Evergreen Shrubs in the landscape
Saturday, October 30: (9-11 am): Garden Tour: see over 100 different trees and shrubs
Tuesday, November 2: Using Native Plants in your landscape; Avoid Invasive Plants
Tuesday, November 9: Soil and Plant Chemistry – how it affects everything you plant
Tuesday, November 16: Review Your Design with a Master GardenerYou can sign up individually for each class, or for the whole series. Classes cost $10.00 each, or $40.00 for all eight. For more information and to register, call (717) 263-9226. Or you can click on the brochure above, print it, then fill out the information and send it to the Extension Office.
UPDATE 10/8/10 - NOTE: The Garden Tour date has been changed from Saturday, November 6th to Saturday, October 30th.
October Workshops - Perennial Gardens
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| Click for Larger Picture |
The Saturday October 2 workshop is entitled “Planning and Designing a Perennial Bed” and will cover the basics of perennial gardening.
The Saturday October 9 workshop is entitled “Flowers for the Perennial Garden” and will help participants select the right colors and sizes of flowers for their perennial bed, as well as the correct locations for their choices.
The workshops will take place at the Master Gardener Clubhouse, 181 Franklin Farm Lane in Chambersburg. The workshops cost $10 each, or $15 for both, and are designed to provide basic gardening information and experiences for new gardeners or a refresher course for seasoned gardeners. These are hands on workshops, so be prepared to get your hands dirty.
For more information and to register, call (717) 263-9226. Or you can click on the brochure above, print it, then fill out the information and send it to the Extension Office.
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Shelob's Cousin in the Peppers
These are some of the largest and showiest of the spiders commonly encountered in Pennsylvania. They are seen in gardens, tall weeds, and sunny areas with bushes and other supporting structures on which they build their large orb webs. Yellow garden spiders are found throughout most of the United States.
As Laurie noted in her email to me:
"...if you look at the photo of the spider's underside, the head area looks like batman's face."And so it does.
More pictures from Laurie's husband, Keith, and Alex follow.
Here are fact sheets on Pennsylvania Spiders from the PSU Entomology page.
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| Photo by Alex Surcica |
More 2010 Autumn Stroll Pictures
Angela and Jerry sent more pictures. Enjoy
Previous coverage here.
Update: September 22nd - More pictures added
Angela and Jerry sent more pictures. Enjoy
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| Gray Garden Photo - A. Weathers |
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| Gray Garden Photo - A. Weathers |
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| Grindlesperger Garden Photo - A. Weathers |
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| Gindlesperger Garden Photo - A. Weathers |
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| Gindlesperger Garden Photo - A. Weathers |
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| Gindlesperger Garden Photo - A. Weathers |
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| Gindlesperger Garden Photo - A. Weathers |
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| Gindlesperger Garden Photo - A. Weathers |
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| Lucas Garden Photo - A. Weathers |
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| Asbury Garden Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Forsythe Garden Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Gray Garden Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Grindlesperger Garden Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Redington Garden Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Redington Garden Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Lucas Garden Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Lucas Garden Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Asbury Garden Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Asbury Garden Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Berger Garden Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Miller Garden Photo - J. Lewis |
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| Downtime Photo - A. Weathers |
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| Downtime Photo - A. Weathers |
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| Downtime Photo - A. Weathers |
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| Downtime Photo - A. Weathers |
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| Downtime Photo - A. Weathers |
Update: September 22nd - More pictures added
Monday, September 20, 2010
2010 Garden Tour Coverage and Pictures
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| Lucas Garden Photo - L. Miller |
Nice write up in the Chambersburg Public Opinion on yesterday's 2010 Garden Tour. From the article:
"I like how they've blended everything. They have the roses blended with the perennials. It's just pretty how they put it all together and they have bloom year round that's what amazes me,"More at the link, including quotes and descriptions of the Redington and Gray gardens. And apparently, MG's can play a small part in keeping the marital relationship on an even keel:
"A lot of this should be inspirational. We have gardens that are very simple in structure so that they should not be intimidated if they are not an experienced gardener," said Georgena Ruth, chair of the garden tour and master gardener. "We want to encourage those who are inexperienced and for those who are experienced we want to allow them room to grow to the next level."
Master Gardeners Karen Latsbaugh and Nancy Jones were in charge of the refreshments.
Instead of the traditional cookies, they chose vegetables from the garden to make salsa, cucumber sandwiches and lavender mint tea to satisfy the appetite of tour participants.
"People like gardens, and it's a great opportunity for us to give a little bit of educational information about gardening," Jones said. "At most of the sites there are handouts or people to answer questions that give information about various aspects about gardening and agriculture."
"I'm stealing all these ideas. In order not to have a divorce with my husband -- he likes evergreens, so I'm trying to take pictures of the beautiful evergreen gardens and the more conservative gardens," said Barkdoll jokingly. "So it's a compromise between me spending $200 on flowering perennial plants which he's not crazy about because of the way they die off and leave not so pretty foliage. I'll hide them with the evergreens and it's good marriage therapy."
The 2010 Autumn Stroll went very well, and much thanks go to the chair of the event, Georgena Ruth, whose year-long efforts and organizing were on display all day. Particularly impressive, to me, was the unobtrusive, but clear emphasis on the educational aspects of various disciplines within home horticulture and the Master Gardeners support of Penn State Cooperative Extension's Land Grant mission.
Well done!
And of course the event couldn't happen without the generous public spiritedness of our garden hosts:
The Redington Garden - Joe, Nancy, Mike and JimThanks for the support, folks!
The Gindlesperger Garden - Maxine and William
The Stenger Garden - Fred
The Gray Garden - Steve and Evie
The Stout Garden - Greg and Joseph
The Berger Garden - Nancy and Wayne
The Forsythe Garden - Richard
The Asbury Garden - Susan
The Miller Garden - Nancy and Larry
The Lucas Garden - Denise and Ted
Here are some pictures taken by Nancy Miller's husband, Larry, of the Lucas and Miller gardens including the "down time" afterwards.
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| Lucas Garden Photo - L. Miller |
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| Lucas Garden Photo- L. Miller |
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| Lucas Mailbox Photo - L. Miller |
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| Miller Garden Photo - L. Miller |
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| Miller Garden Photo - L. Miller |
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| Miller Garden Photo - L. Miller |
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| Miller Garden Photo - L. Miller |
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| Miller Garden Photo - L. Miller |
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| Hummingbird at the Miller Garden Photo - L. Miller |
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| MG's Prep for the Public at Millers Photo - L. Miller |
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| Downtime at the Millers afterward Photo - L. Miller |
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| Downtime at the Millers Afterward Photo- L. Miller |
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| Downtime at the Millers Afterward Photo - L. Miller |
Update 9/21/10: More pictures here.